North of Castro Marim and between Junqueira and Azinhal (on the old N 122) and the west bank of the rio Guadiana is 1,500 ha of unprotected countryside that is a blend of salt marsh (sapal), rounded grassy hills, traditional farmland, cistus-covered scrubland, river margins and freshwater pools.

After a wet winter, the area is ablaze with wildflowers and colourful butterflies grace the meadows. Once upon a time, in the middle of a hot summer's day, the only sound was the ringing of cowbells and buzzing of bees. In spring, Little Bustards displayed, Stone Curlews called from the hills, Great Spotted Cuckoos and Common Magpies chased each other, Montagu's Harriers patrolled the fields, Corn Buntings jangled and Black-winged Kites and Lesser Kestrels prospected. From the sapal, Quail quipped and Spectacled Warblers sang. Elsewhere, European Bee-eaters built colonies and White Storks constructed huge, conspicuous nests for themselves and squatting Spanish, Tree and House Sparrows. Gadwall, Mallard, Little Grebe and Eurasian Coot bred on the ponds and Great Reed Warblers and Cetti's Warblers sang from the reeds and bulrushes, hardly competing with the Nightingales. Unfortunately, this wonderful reminder of what the Algarve was has changed much and what is left is threatened with becoming more golf courses and their attendant development. Already across the Guadiana on the Spanish side, the horse-drawn ploughs of a few years ago have been replaced by golf courses and wall to wall apartment blocks. Nevertheless, the area is still worth visiting and rarely disappoints - but hurry.

Access to the area is possible via two routes and both are best on foot. At dawn, the rising sun can be a nuisance. For the upper circuit, follow the road eastwards out of Azinhal with the church on the right and the ruined windmill on the left and continue on the unmade road past the cemetery. Walk up to the triangulation point and scan for raptors. The second left off the track leads to the rio Guadiana and the old fiscal post at Corte Nova. An idyllic spot and when not too muddy, follow the riverbank southwards for 2 km to a low sandstone bluff. Migrants use the river as a flyway and spoonbills, herons and shorebirds feed along the muddy margins. Return to the original track, keeping right and the route soon opens out to provide expansive views of the sapal below and the grassy hills beyond. It seems very African and the distant cows could be wildebeest, perhaps it is the unexpected scale of everything. After another twisting 3 km through good habitat, the track emerges on the old N 122 north of Junqueira or an earlier right fork leads back over the hill to Azinhal.

To visit the sapal, fork right along an unsurfaced road about a 100 m north of Junqueira, just before a road bridge, and head eastwards on deteriorating tracks to the rio Guadiana. Return the same way. Usually only a 4WD vehicle can go all the way and after heavy rain and in winter, parts are difficult for any vehicle. Cattle fences are often erected across tracks but can be carefully negotiated. En route, a picturesque but deserted farmhouse encrusted with storks' nests is passed. To avoid disturbance, pass quickly and keep well away.

It is also worth taking the road on the opposite side of the old N 122 up to the barragem do Beliche (Beliche Dam). Here Crag Martins, White Wagtails and Blue Rock Thrushes breed and alongside the road in wet winters is a small marsh.