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Bird watching
HOW TO IDENTIFY BIRDS (by Clive Vinney)

General
The first rule is be patient and do not expect to identify every bird seen. Often only a quick glimpse will hint at something unusual - for example, a brightly coloured wing patch or peculiar mode of flight. Failure to give the bird a name is frustrating and becomes more so with greater experience. Use this disappointment as a stimulus to press on and find more (and perhaps better) birds. Sometimes female and immature plumages are not well illustrated in field guides and specific identification may not be possible.

Learn to be quiet. Do not plunge noisily through undergrowth or chatter continuously to a colleague. Whilst some birds perch prominently and are apparently oblivious to noise, others, particularly in woodland, are wary and seen only after great effort.

Try to go out with somebody more knowledgeable but do not just rely on his or her identification. Be sure you understand how to identify the bird - for example, by its prominent crest, distinctive wing markings, brightly coloured rump or diagnostic call.

Optics
Essential, so buy the best you can afford. Apart from providing a clearer view, good binoculars reduce eyestrain. Long days in the field can be tiring enough but a headache from using poor binoculars can ruin an otherwise excellent day. The best all-round magnification is 8x but in woodland and for general use 7x is acceptable. In open areas such as salinas and on the coast, a higher magnification is useful (especially if not carrying a telescope) but never greater than 10x as such binoculars are unstable without a tripod. The diameter of the object lens is most important and appears after the magnification, e.g. 7x40 or 10x50 - this represents the light gathering power. A key figure is obtained by dividing the magnification into the diameter, e.g. 7 into 40 goes 6 (near enough) or 10 into 50 goes 5, and any result between 4 and 7 is satisfactory. Most binoculars have a field of view marked on them and this should be as wide as possible, although it decreases with magnification. Another very important consideration, one often overlooked, is the minimum focusing distance and is easily tested before purchasing. Nothing is more frustrating than being unable to focus on a bird only two or three meters away - obviously, the shorter the minimum focusing distance the better. A further simple test when buying binoculars is to focus on a distant object against the sky, such as a flagpole, and ensure that there are no colour fringes. Some binoculars have tinted lenses but these are unsuitable for birdwatching. Never point binoculars anywhere near the sun as this can cause immediate blindness. Zoom binoculars and binoculars with image stabilisers have yet to prove their worth to birdwatchers.

Another point to consider when buying binoculars is weight. The higher the magnification and the bigger the object lens, the heavier the weight. A pair of 10x50 standard binoculars (porro-prism) can seem very heavy towards the end of a day. Good roof-prism binoculars are lighter and usually waterproof but more expensive. After the initial outlay, birdwatching need not be an expensive hobby, so invest in your binoculars and buy the best you can afford. Good name brand binoculars carry a 10-year and sometimes a 30-year guarantee.

Telescopes are an optional extra but add an entirely new dimension to birdwatching. They are not only essential to identify shorebirds on distant mudflats or ducks far out to sea but also provide magnificent views of nearby birds. Field identification of similar species sometimes requires the examination of patterning and positioning of individual feathers and this is only possible through a telescope. Worthwhile telescopes are often heavy and to use efficiently need sturdy tripods - the best telescope in the world is useless without a good tripod. This combination usually means a cumbersome addition to a field trip, so often the first decision of the day (or even a holiday) will be whether or not to take the telescope. Magnifications of 20x up to 40x are the most usual but recently top class zoom lenses up to 60x have become available. Good telescopes are expensive and the best advice is to try as many out as you can in the field and decide which you like best. Telescopes are a very personal choice but owners are often ready to discuss the pros and cons of their particular model. Never stint, if you decide to carry one then pay for a good one.